Life Enhanced: The Southeastern English Countryside and London

Tea with James and Edward  in the 
Lamb House Garden,  Rye, Sussex, UK. 
So British! Photo by Edward 

I wish I could take a trip to England every year, because it's such a lovely country, so much to see and learn, easy for an American to travel around, and there's never enough time to take it all in properly. But no matter when I visit, it's always fantastic. This time it was awesome.

I went with friend Linda Furney, the first time we traveled together. We had a wonderful time, made good traveling partners. We started out in Rochester, Kent, with our hosts James and Edward, in their  much-loved home with its beautiful garden. They were the best hosts. They made sure we felt at home and that we experienced all the highlights of Rochester and the southeastern region of the UK. 

On the way to Rye, by Edward 

The poem by William Blake, "And did those feet in ancient times," which was put to music by Sir Hubert Perry in 1916 and called "Jerusalem," ran through my head the whole time I was there (poem below). Sometimes I burst into song.  We were immersed in England's "green and pleasant land" that stood strong against the "dark satanic mills" of industrialization, the "pleasant pastures" where "the holy lamb of god" was seen.

James spent a day showing us Rochester: the red brick Castle and medieval fortifications; the Cathedral dating to the 7th century, founded by Justus and Augustine to spread Christianity, built and rebuilt over time; Restoration House, an historic city mansion lovingly restored inside and out, the Satis House of Dickens' Great Expectations, with a lovely cafe for tea and lunch; a lively Main street and town center. I thought I heard Dickens whispering his paeans to pastoral Kent county as we strolled the very streets he walked and saw the structures and landscape he loved.

At the Canterbury Cathedral, awesome, huge, ever-expanding, always under construction and/or restoration. The wood, arches, art, stained glass windows, sculpturing, the details, the interior decorations and motifs are stunning to behold, beyond beautiful. Photo with cross and swords is the shrine of Thomas Becket, the archbishop murdered at the Cathedral in 1170.  

Thomas Becket Shrine. 

The Northwest Transept

The next day James, our tour guide par excellence, offered us a special treat: a trip to Canterbury to see one of  the oldest and largest Cathedrals in England, the iconic Canterbury Cathedral. Oh what a sight! It is so large that we were thrilled just to get to see bits and parts of it. The Cathedral was founded in 597 (imagine!), rebuilt between 1070 and 1077, largely rebuilt in the Gothic style following a fire in 1174, with significant extensions to accommodate the flow of pilgrims visiting the shrine of Thomas Becket.

Thomas Becket? Good heavens. I had to dig deep to remember this history and was grateful for a very knowledgable volunteer docent who retold the story in vivid detail. King Henry II had frequent conflicts with the strong-willed Becket and is said to have exclaimed in frustration: "Will no one rid me of this turbulent priest?"  Four of his knights took him literally, killing Becket in cold blood in the northwest transept of Canterbury in December 1170. Murder in the Cathedral. I couldn't believe we were standing on the very spot. It sent a chill down my spine. I was moved to prayer.

With visions of Canterbury dancing in our heads, full of images and stories, we took the train back to Rochester.  We had tea at the house (of course), regaled Edward with our adventure, and ended the day with a delicious meal at James' and Edwards' favorite Thai restaurant. The juxtaposition of the old and the new couldn't have been better.

Enjoying the town of Rye and the Sussex countryside with Edward and James; the Lamb House, where Henry James stayed; the river at low tide; the town, gardens, aging limestone, historic Inns; the "pleasant pastures" of England; tea in the Lamb House garden.  The best photos are by Edward, a man of many talents.

Lamb House

In Rye, East Sussex, UK.

Edward took over on Saturday, his day off from a busy work week, and drove us into the English countryside of Kent and Sussex as only a native-born Brit can do. We were on the highways and byways of England's "green and pleasant land." We traveled over once-dirt roads that were narrow, winding, barely paved, driving from town to town, from farms and villages to the sea.

Edward's destination was the notable English port town of Rye. What a charming place!  Even the 13th-century Rye Castle, once a jail, had its charm, with a special women's section (a first) and nice views of the town's harbours. As we strolled the cobble-stoned streets, past old homes, shops, and inns like the historic Mermaid Inn, we came upon the Lamb House, the 18th-century mansion where American novelist Henry James lived from 1897-1914. The house, well-cared for, with lovely furnishings and features, is now a writer's house museum owned by the National Trust. What better way to end our time in East Sussex than taking in this fine mansion and having tea in its Tudor and Renaissance-style gardens!

It was hard tearing ourselves away from this heavenly place and saying goodbye for now to dear friends Edward and James, until we meet again.  It was on to London.

Prince Albert Memorial and Royal Albert Hall, just a walk
across the park, past the Princess Diana Memorial. wiki photo.

The hotel we booked through Tripmaster's was fantastic, the Caesar on Queen's Garden street in the Bayswater section of the city, a tube ride into town or a walk across Kensington Gardens (map above).  Actually the walk across the park was a nice little adventure. We saw on our map that the Albert and Victoria Museum was just on the other side of Kensington Gardens from where we were, a few blocks from our hotel.

So we ventured forth, following the paths, getting a few helpful tips at forks in the road, passing the Diana Memorial, and landing at the grandiose and colorful Albert Memorial. We admired the memorial, then walked on past the Royal Albert Hall to the grand Albert and Victoria Museum.  We went there for the Frida Kahlo exhibit, only to learn the tickets were sold out.  We did the next best thing and toured the museum, Linda and I going our separate ways to investigate whatever drew us in and at our own pace, always a good thing to do in a large museum that you are visiting for the first time.

LONDON! By this time my camera battery was not functioning, so didn't get many photos. But who can forget being in the heart of  London? Highlights: Bayswater (white row houses, bottom left); Kensington Gardens;  Albert & Victoria Museum, interior& exterior, where we saw Frida Kahlo costume exhibit when Linda became a member. Kinky Boots. "Hi Kids, I'm fine!" James made a great sign for me but, alas, left it home, so I improvised for my kids and grandkids on our trusty map! 

The next day Linda awoke with a brainstorm.
"I have an idea of how we can get into the Frida Kahlo exhibit," she told me. Hmm, I thought.
"Really, how is that possible?"
"I can join the museum, become a member! I wish I had thought of it yesterday while we were right there."

It seemed an expensive option, but a great idea, and Linda was adamant. So back to the Museum we went, with high hopes, this time by cab, although the traffic was so bad, so snarled and jammed, it would have been quicker to walk.  We made it, and tra la, Linda is now a member in good standing of the Albert and Victoria Museum! The Toledo-London connection.  I was her guest, and we both got into the Frida Kahlo exhibit just like that! I'm grateful to Linda that we did. It is a unigue and breathtaking exhibit (a blockbuster for the Museum), giving viewers a context for understanding Frida, herself a great artist, and her times; insight into the indigenous people of southern Mexico (with some beautiful videos); Frida's relationship with Diego Rivera, the renowned muralist; her fierce sense of independence and autonomy.  Making her Self. Being her Self.  Determined to embody the soul and spirit of the real Mexico. The exquisite and beautiful skirts and tops (huipils), jewelry and hair decorations, every glorious item full of color and texture, flowers, indigenous designs, beauty.  Take a look: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up#intro

We also made that almost-obligatory journey to London's Leicester Square, the heart of the London theatre district, hoping against hope to get tickets to the play "Hamilton." We went the traditional way, via the Tube. We had to refresh ourselves a bit, but we did an okay job of reading the Tube maps, switching lines, going in the right direction, getting it right, and we were proud of ourselves. We two girls knew how to get around!

Of course, as we suspected, the play was sold out, until October, beyond our stay. Sold out, like the Frida Kahlo tickets. Even Linda couldn't get around this one, so we quickly decided to get tickets to another play, and at Linda's suggestion just as quickly decided on the sassy musical Kinky Boots. It's a story about new friendships and making your own dreams, with fun songs by Cyndi Lauper and sterling production by Harvey Fierstein (La Cage aux Folles); great dancing, actors and singers; super sets and lighting. The play was actually inspired by true events, taking us boisterously from a gentlemen's shoe factory in Northampton, Mass, USA, to high-style Milan, where models, male and female, need glamorous heels and boots to strut the catwalk. Here's where the fabulous character Lola comes in, in the play a performer in need of sturdy new stiletttoes and glamorous high-calved boots. He was fantastic, flamboyant! I enjoyed the play and Linda was in 7th heaven with delight. "LOVED it!" I didn't know that flamboyant, rocking, dazzling, hot musicals were her cup of tea.

Queen Elizabeth was here, and dedicated the Tea Room on her Jubilee in 2012.  

And speaking of her cup of tea, and to top off our London visit, we celebrated Linda's birthday with a traditional English high tea at fabulous Fortnum and Mason.  It's a grand upscale store established in 1707 in Piccadilly, London, and still going strong through many different transformations.  It felt as if I was inside Selfridges, the elegant department store featured in the PBS Masterpiece series of the same name.*  But here we were; it was 9/11, and Linda's birthday. What a date, evoking New York's Twin Towers  and tragedy. But Linda has given her birth date a special touch of her own, and tea is the centerpiece of it.  I've never had such a wonderful afternoon tea as I did with Linda at Fortnum and Mason,  the place for tea in London, Edward assured us.The best teas and scones ever in the world, sumptuous tea sandwiches and cakes. Linda is an English tea aficionado through and through. She bought some tea and china, cups and saucers in those soft aqua pastel colors.  9/11 transfixed into a day of goodness and celebration.  Linda was Queen for a Day, and I had the pleasure of sharing it with her.

Delicious memories! New adventures, transforming and unforgettable. Travel transcendant. Life enhanced. The big city after the countryside, London after Kent and Sussex. It was a perfectly wonderful way to be in England.  Can more adventures be far behind?

Blake's poem

And did those feet in ancient times,
Walk upon England's mountains green:
And was the holy Lamb of God,
On England's pleasant pastures seen!

         And did the Countenance Divine,

Shine forth upon our clouded hills?

And was Jerusalem builded here,

Among these dark Satanic Mills?

Bring me my Bow of burning gold;

Bring me my Arrows of desire:

Bring me my Spear: O clouds unfold!

Bring me my Chariot of fire!

I will not cease from Mental Fight,

Nor shall my Sword sleep in my hand:

Till we have built Jerusalem,

In England's green & pleasant Land.

* For an interesting history of these elegant stores: https://exploring-london.com/category/specials/8-historic-department-stores/

*  Fortnum and Mason: The Tea Salon--SERVING TEA SINCE 1926

"Our Tea Salon has been a great many things for over 307 years. Beginning as an apartment for the Fortnum family, an interior decorating department in the 1920s and 1930s, and an antiques department and a restaurant known as St. James’s, it now pays homage to the timeless tradition of Afternoon Tea. / Epitomising the sophistication of Afternoon and High Tea in all its splendour, our Diamond Jubilee was named in honour of Her Majesty’s visit in 2012, when she formally opened the room, in the company of their Royal Highnesses the Duchess of Cornwall and the Duchess of Cambridge."

England on the Horizon

Rochester Castle from across the Medway River, engraving,
 GF Sargent. c. 1836 (wikimedia)